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Obelisk attracts a surprisingly young, casual crowd for a spot that has been serving a fixed five-course menu five nights a week since 1987. It's likely due to the restaurant’s warm, neighborhood feel. The light and seasonal Italian cooking begins with a bang, as an assortment of fantastic antipasti is quickly ushered to the table: perhaps creamy burrata imported from Lazio or a hot croquette filled with melting cheese. Dishes are never fussy and are presented simply, with honest flavors and purposeful ingredients. Entrées might include a dorade with a cracker-crisp sear, served with nutty romesco sauce and green chickpeas. All breads and desserts are made in-house. Don't expect to dash in; the full experience is worth the two to three hours.