There’s a slightly ‘underground’ feel to this small bistro, both figuratively and literally; you enter via a few steps down from street level, into a ‘half-cellar’ dining room with windows looking out onto the pavement. There’s an impressive level of restraint and control in the cooking, with sauces proving particularly impressive – such as a rich bisque enhanced by Thai-style spicing, ably accompanying top-quality langoustine medallions. For something a little different, look out for dishes like the cep ice cream dessert.