Xian, or umami, is the fifth core flavour of food; it also means “fresh” in Chinese. At Lao Xing Xian, the owner aims to serve the freshest seafood, caught by his own fleet in the East China Sea that is deftly crafted with a knockout umami kick. The fish is neatly displayed for diners to choose – beltfish and yellow croaker taste best when steamed plain. Braised wild rice paddy eel is lightly seasoned to accentuate its natural flavour.