Chef Ricardo Dias Ferreira has unashamedly gone back to basics here, cooking exclusively over wood, to such an extent that he rarely uses the grill or oven. With his combination of traditional Portuguese cuisine, smoky flavours and modern touches, he offers à la carte options alongside an “8-moment” tasting menu, and his cuisine varies from day to day depending on the availability of ingredients from small-scale local producers. Allow yourself to be guided by recommendations from the interesting selection of Portuguese wines, and if you’re keen to enjoy the experience to the full, take a seat at the counter in front of the kitchen so you can watch the chefs in action at close quarters.