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Halfway across the globe, the husband-and-wife team of Roberth and Andrea Sundell have brought the flavors of their native Stockholm to their adopted hometown, Petaluma. This cheery, minimal spot plays all the hits: pickled herring, hearty meatballs and house-made sodas (try the subtly sweet sea buckthorn). Heavy Mid-Eastern and light California touches still manage to creep in, as seen in the skagen—a classic dill-shrimp salad that adds avocado to the mix, or farm-fresh berries atop giant pancakes. For the hardcore herring haters, the menu also flaunts tasty nods to Sweden’s Middle Eastern community by way of falafel, tabbouleh and a terrific beef-lamb pita wrap.

Jars of black licorice and bulks of other Swedish candies are available for daily binging.