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Chef Ron Yan is making a splash with one of the most exciting restaurants in Chinatown in recent memory. Just across from Seward Park, find a finely tuned menu that spotlights a range of familiar Chinese dishes, all prepared with style and refinement. Think tender beef shank buried under a refreshing herb salad or perfect fried cubes of tofu dusted in salt and pepper. One can’t-miss entrée is branzino fried until golden brown and served in a fantastic sweet and sour sauce. A unique feature here is the wine program—it's serious business with a long, thoughtful list and Zalto glasses to boot. With so much to order, your small table fills up quickly, and the small dining room gets busy in a hurry. It’s all part of the charm.