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A contemporary restaurant with an open-view kitchen, two counters and a Japanese ambience that is far from lacking in personality. Its meticulous, constantly evolving cuisine could be described by quoting the Greek philosopher Heracles: “No man ever steps in the same river twice”. In his restaurant, which shares the nickname given to him by his grandfather when he was a boy (“Hugochan”, or “little Hugo”), chef Hugo Muñoz conjures up Japanese cuisine (on an à la carte and a personalised Omakase menu) in which seasonal ingredients take centre stage, incorporating enjoyable influences from other cultures and with a nod to iconic Madrid dishes (such as the tripe gyozas “a la madrileña” and his version of “Soldaditos de Pavía”) and other legendary chefs (Martín Berasategui, Joël Robuchon etc). One dish that we particularly enjoyed was the highly memorable caviar lentil Japanese curry with smoked breast of wood pigeon and coconut.