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If Candente were any larger, it would need its own zip code. The number of tables, the expansive patio, the bar seating that stretches the length of the kitchen – the scale of this Tex-Mex restaurant is considerable. And yet, the cooking keeps up. You could make a whole meal out of the tortilla soup, and there’s a lot to like about the enchiladas, stuffed with cheese or, notably, brisket. But we’re really here for the fajitas featuring excellent prime beef sourced from Niman Ranch. Tender cuts arrive on a sizzling cast-iron with charred onions and come with fantastic tortillas made with brisket trimmings. There’s nothing light or delicate about any of this. This is food that sticks to your bones and wipes you out until you’re ready for more.