Nestled in a cultural park, this restaurant is furnished in modern Jiangnan style – round windows, bamboo chairs and bonsai. The menu, too, is rooted in tradition but given a modern twist. Be sure to try the deep-fried stinky tofu with river shrimps; the fermented flavour adds to the overall umami. Stone pot taro is cooked with fried lard for a starchy comfort dish in autumn or winter. Also try the braised pork belly with house-made plum wine.