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This laid-back neighborhood spot is not to be underestimated. The unfussy dining room, which is often full, is balanced by a serious kitchen where chefs deploy top-rate ingredients and carefully manage puffy, charred Roman-style pizzas cooked in electric deck ovens. Oblong in shape and perfect for solo diners, the pies have a fantastic, bubble-like crunch to them; a favorite is the diavola sbagliata, which pairs spicy Italian salami, spicy Italian honey and smoked scamorza. And whereas some pizzerias have only one talent, this one also has a keen hand with pastas, all of which are made in-house. Think tagliatelle tossed with basil pesto, ravioli stuffed with roasted eggplant and a squid ink spaghetti cooked with clams and white wine.